The beach. A fun new way to tan your hide.

Senegal's Irangate muddies the waters

It is hard to predict all potential influences on a peace process. You can anticipate motivators like money, power, envy, rivalry, and politics. But this last intrusion into the Casamance conflict comes from an unexpected place.

Today, Senegal announced that it was cutting diplomatic ties - for the second time in 3 months. The rupture comes after the Chief of Staff of the Senegalese army issued a report that positively confirms that the MFDC has been using Iranian weapons to fight Senegal soldiers. The report makes reference to two previous shipments of arms to Gambia that may also have filtered into the hands of the Casamance independence movement. Last December, Nigerian authorities seized a large shipment of 32 containers bound for Gambia. And the fall out of that highly publicized event led Senegal to file a complaint with the UN Security Council via the United States ambassador to the United Nations.

Ever since Iran embarked on the pursuit of nuclear power, the U.S. has sought the support of its allies to isolate Iran politically and economically. When Senegal - a longtime ally of the United States - brazenly supported Iran's plans for nuclear power, it created a malaise in US-Senegalese relations.

The decision to rescind its relationship with Iran comes at a time when the death toll of Senegalese soldiers at the hands of well-equipped Casamance rebel has become intolerable. The emergence of the army's report put the final nails in the coffin, and opened a new possibility for agreement between Senegal and the U.S. on the question of Iran's isolation.

Senegal and Gambia followed suit immediately with the agreement to form joint patrols along the Gambian-Casamance border by April 2011. It feels like a test of Gambia public statements that it does not support the rebels in Casamance and a good way to keep closer tabs on what is happening along this very porous border. Something tells me that the offer of U.S. assistance to help monitor border activity is not far behind. What impact U.S. government involvement in this conflict will have on our program is also in question. Until now, all the rebel groups have seen our organization as neutral. That may change should we suddenly find ourselves on the side of a U.S. military assistance program that is less than friendly to those seeking refuge in Gambia.

I am off to spend the weekend on one of the famous beaches of Casamance. I have been here for nearly 4 months but have held off visiting until Jenny arrived. Looking forward to seeing what all the fuss has been about.

Burning New Trails

The power of fire has come to the fore yet again this year.  I am not just referring to the many, emotional sighs of relief of the reemergence of that fiery globe in the sky after many months of cold and darkness.  No, I am thinking of the symbolism of fire as a tool of purification and renewal.

From Prometheus’ perilous quest for fire and the biblical revelations of judgment by fire,  to the Phoenix’s rebirth through fire and its ashes, we find solace and dedicate prose to this powerful, destructive and yet rejuvenating force.  I remember the fires that raged through Yellowstone National Forest back in the 1990s, driving thousands from the land and taking their homes one by one on the evening news.  My friend Paul and I were fortunate to be able to visit the park in the course of our work with the Department of State just a few years later and marveled at the thousands of new trees that had been born from this natural calamity that had caused so much anguish and sorrow for the many who had called this area home and sanctuary. The Pinon Pine needs the high heat of 1500 degrees Fahrenheit to crack its seed pods; however, the careful controls on wildfires had denied this species its rightful birth. This tree seems, by design, to be the harbingers of a newly emerging landscape when lightning-sparked wildfires sweep across the plains.

These are the images that came to mind when I read the news of a 36-year old Senegalese army veteran who sat on the steps of the presidential palace in Dakar Friday morning, carefully removed a small plastic bottle, emptied its contents over his body, and set himself ablaze to the horror of theretofore indifferent palace guards.  The man died from his wounds at 1 a.m. today, February 21st.  Other images streaming across the internet over the past month highlight other young men who also chose the ritual of self-sacrifice to send a message of suffering, sadness, anger, and powerlessness in the hope of bringing about a positive change.

After years of seeing young men use their bodies as bombs to kill thousands, these new tactics have shifted our gaze slightly to see these actions as self-sacrifice, martyrdom, great personal loss with a heavy political message.  If you watched Al Jazeera over the course of the past few years, you will note that the term suicide bomber was never used. Instead, an individual martyred him or herself in the name of a cause.  This new wave, causing injury only to the self, seems to have garnished greater sympathy.  But it seems to me that the message remains the same.  Change, Now!

But what kind of change can we expect? What new landscape will emerge from the ashes of Egypt, Tunisia, and the evolving revolutions in Libya, Yemen, Jordan, and Algeria?  Are the sacrificial fires enough to bring purification and renewal? I sit here with the angels and devils of doubt and hope on  opposite shoulders making it very difficult to decide either way.  But the first steps to resolution and peace comes with the truth.  Speaking the truth and sharing grief, stories of the past, and desires for the future can be an purifying process.  In some old traditions, the breath is believed to be the bringer of life.  You do not use it to blow out a candle's flame but instead to invigorate, inspire, and enlighten.  I pray on this day that the people of the world take stock in this lesson and do not allow meaningless talk to extinguish the flames that have opened a potential new path to self-realization and promise. The young men need not have died in vain nor inspire others to follow in their footsteps.

The streets of Dakar are quiet and there are no signs of unrest or even an interest in courting the flames of a Senegalese revolution.  But as I walked to buy vegetables for dinner, I could heard the name of the fallen soldier, Bocar Bocoum, whispered in conversations between men selling telephone cards, street vendors, and taxi drivers waiting for rush hour customers.  He has not been forgotten.  Sometimes the real power of fire is reflection.

Thank you for your well wishes and email messages.  I feel very blessed and loved.

A day in the life

As we figure out a new way forward - no throwing in the towel in this business - I am finding it pleasurable to take in the social scene in Ziguinchor.

Hardcore rap Senegal style (Click to listen)

I attended a rap talent show that the English club of the local public high school organized to raise money.  It was a hit.  Lots of kids, all decked out in their 2-Pac meets Puff Daddy cum Dr Dre fashion with ball caps, high school letter jackets (not sure about that one), baggy jeans, and bobbing heads.  They each performed original works that would be hits in the United States - if they had been in English.  I was put off initially by the fact that everyone was just mouthing the words but someone pointed out that good microphones were too expensive, so everyone premixed their raps and background music for that night's performance.  So while they were not actually rapping on the night of the performance, the recording was all them.  Really a professional gig.  I look forward to the next one.  I like rap music.  This musical art form started as an outlet to express inner-city troubles and that is still the case here in Ziguinchor.  And, yes, I was the old guy in the room.  But it was fun.

The last month has seen a sharp spike in violence.  Alleged MFDC gunmen have perpetrated armed car jackings, slit the throat of a woman they accused of informing to the military, robbed a bank, and held many standing battles with the Senegalese army.  "Standing" - as in not on the run.  These guys are getting cocky and more organized.  And fortunately, also more verbal. One leader, who may be behind some of most recent attacks, sent a letter to a local community warning them not to form armed militia to defend their village.  The letter was harsh and angry, but it is still showed an effort to communicate.  A hard lined group with no interest in social ties would never have bothered with a letter, much less a warning.  So, that is a good sign, in my eyes.  I take what I can get.

I bring this up because some of the kids rapping last Friday had taken on nicknames associated with the recent attacks.  Nearly all the kids come from families that have fallen on hard times, and all blame the government.  It was not surprising that they begin to idolize the rebels. especially in light of recent successes in the field.  There is just no doubt that the youth hold the keys to any sustainable peace in this region.  Most of the young men and women I saw that night are not looking to don camouflage jumpsuits and carry automatic weapons anytime soon.  They are the local elite that managed to find the financial means to make it to high school.  Yet, they are in contact with friends who are less fortunate and far more likely to see the rebellion as a valid option - if they haven't joined already.  The hard messages carried with style in their lyrical performances tell me that this group may be interested in helping to find solutions, if given an opportunity to contribute.

On a personal note, I received a call from the shipping agent that my personal effects are scheduled for delivery on Saturday, February 13th.  They took nearly four months to get here but it will feel like Christmas when they do.

Peace, love, as I sway to the sounds of the rap song dedicated to saving the Mangroves (no kidding)

Now something light - salsa in Dakar. I had a blast