Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Eid Mubarak or Bonne Fête de Tabaski

Hard for a vegetarian to talk about the feast of Tabaski without getting at least a little queasy.Today is the feast of the lamb - also known as the day of sacrifice. The celebration of the decision that Ibrahim or Abraham made to obey the Lord's instruction to sacrifice his favorite son. Most of you know the story from Genesis 22 in the Bible and in the Qu'ran under Surat Hajj verse 37 in the Qu'ran. For those of you who did not get exposure to either doctrines and are too young to have caught the Hollywood versions around Easter every year. The Lord rewards Abraham for his obedience at the last minute, providing a sheep for sacrifice instead. Later, sheep emerge again as a symbol of God's will. In Christianity, Christ is often portrayed as the lamb. In Islam, the Milky Way was created to provide guidance to the sheep to reach Ibrahim. To be a Muslim is to do the will of God and sheep continue to be a powerful symbol of obedience and faith in many religions that developed in that part of the world. I am no religious scholar but this is what friends and colleagues have pointed out to me in my travels and discussions.

Tabaski is a very big holiday here and staff productivity has dropped off considerably over the course of the past few days. One runs to the bank to get enough money for the upcoming festivities. Another runs to various shephard stands that have been set up throughout town selling sheep large and small. Reminds me of Christmas tree stands in my native Los Angeles. Yesterday afternoon, as I headed back from my $1 dollar lunch (crossing my fingers that my intestines will accommodate me), I walked passed a group of families washing their sheep, using lots of soap and water and really scrubbing the poor beasts to get them looking shiny and pretty. Pretty enough to eat, sure. But this is a spiritual act. It is a last rite and dedication at the same time.

I hope the sheep understand their role in all this. The Yaqui Indians of North America believe that animals sacrifice themselves to be of benefit to the tribe. The fact that they were hunted makes it no less of a sacrifice in the end when they finally render themselves. Sacrifice cannot be a one sided action. I recognize the power of today. My staff and I had a discussion about why I do not eat meat and the meaning of sacrifice from the perspective of the animals. It was a very revealing insight since most come from traditions in which animals are very much a part of the spiritual act. Dances imitating the attitudes and roles of animals in bringing balance to the spiritual and physical realm are pervasive in this part of Senegal. An overt association with a Muslim tradition is forbidden but a lot of knowing glances were exchanged when broaching the topic of what balance the sheep brings in making this sacrifice. One consensus was that the shedding of blood and the sharing of meat was a way to continue to live in harmony with one another. Women will prepare many bowls of rice, pasta, and meat that will be placed in front of their home. Street children will take some. Others will be given to those who are in need. Meat is also a rare commodity for most residents here. Fish is served daily because meat is too expensive. Another reason many give blessings for the sacrifices of today.

Many Senegalese will be headed to the mosques today in celebration of that spirit flowing through the air. But most Senegalese living in this region are not Muslim. They are Catholics or they practice their own indigenous religions. What of them? Well, that is a longer blog. But the short version is that I have heard many express openly, and with some defiance, that it is not THEIR holiday. Islam is dominant in the north and much of the conflict has been about how the north abandoned the south in terms of development or participation in political decisions. So, it is not surprising if some express disdain for a Muslim holiday. Looking just at my staff, I noticed that those of northern origins are celebrating and those from Casamance are not. The line does not cut so cleanly however. A good number of Casamançais are Muslims.

Religion aside, it is a widely celebrated secular holiday and the president declares it an official holiday every year- at the very last minute. Our staff only got confirmation a few hours before ending work on Tuesday. Tomorrow will also be a day off. The tradition requires that families eat a third, save a third, and share a third with a neighbor, more distant family, or friends. After that is done, it is time to get-on-down. Or as my friend Kury would say it "time to get tore up from the floor up." Discos all throughout town are going to be opening for the massive turnout that is expected.

All this revelry around food. Reminds of the fun we would have growing up in Los Angeles. Dancing after eating was par for the course. My mother would join my aunt in a jitter bug and even my 90-year old great uncle would cut a rug with his favorite nieces. Fun, warm, and spiritual. Can't beat that. Blessings to all.

1 comment:

  1. I found the part of the third paragraph towards the end was a little confusing. 'Others.....' I could'nt follow. Please rewrite. Thanks

    ReplyDelete